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Vegging out

PRODUCE! Jamie at Home, Channel 4, 8.00pm

Jamie at HomeThere's something fundamentally disappointing about the premise of this show, being that Saint Jamie of the Betterment of School Lunches is trying to encourage people to grow their own produce and cook it. It's rather underwhelming after watching him give underprivileged aspiring chefs a chance at working in a professional kitchen, or owning their own restaurant, or indeed overhauling the diet of schoolchildren everywhere. It's a bit like having seen Madonna adopting children from the developing world and performing in elaborate arena concerts, and then watching her pumice her feet in front of EastEnders. It's disconcertingly low-key.

We can't help wondering how many people watching this will have the means to grow their own veg, much less the inclination. All we've really got space for is two window boxes of basil and parsley, and one of them is so off-colour and withered that it's starting to resemble Lisa Scott-Lee. Making things even trickier is the fact that this week's episode focuses on one of lowculture's mortal enemies - no, not Kaley Cuoco, but the courgette. Urgh. Horrid, slimy things. We're willing to bet there's absolutely nothing he can do with one of those that would be even remotely appealing to us. (Insert your own dirty joke here.)

Essentially it's the sort of food porn TV that you don't feel quite as guilty about watching, unless you happen to be watching it with a takeaway or a ready meal. Which we probably will be, unless our oft-dormant culinary urges start stirring beforehand. Probably not, though; we'll be too busy watching Hollyoaks.

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According to Marxist theory, cultural forms such as opera, classical music and the literary works of Shakespeare all fall under the heading of high culture. Low culture refers to a wide variety of cultural themes that are characterised by their consumption by the masses. We might not be Marxists, but we do know we loved Footballers Wives. If you do too, you'll know what this is all about.

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